Thursday, February 10, 2022

Opinion Today: Rare footage from a factory farm reveals the brutal cost of cheap chicken

Modern poultry farming can rob the animals — and farmers — of dignity.

By Adam Westbrook

Video Producer

There's an image I've struggled to get out of my mind for months.

A chicken staggers listlessly on brown litter. Raw pink skin shows through a molting patchwork of yellow-stained feathers.

And, for some reason, it's wet. A pink and orange slime drips down the chicken's neck as it pecks hopelessly at the dirt.

This image did not come to me in a nightmare but when I began scrubbing through more than two hours of footage sent to The Times by Mercy for Animals, an animal rights organization.

Mercy for Animals

The group's president, Leah Garcés, obtained rare legal access to a poultry farm in the United States last year. The industry doesn't want you to see images like this. They've gone as far as pushing laws that make filming on commercial farms a crime in some states.

Many millions of chickens die in these conditions, and the ones that survive make it onto supermarket shelves and into some fast-food restaurants.

The footage from Mercy for Animals shows chickens dying from the dire conditions, before they even get to the slaughterhouse. In fact, the mortality rate across the industry is about 5 percent. That is about 450 million chickens dying annually.

"The farm, it could be in Georgia, it could be in Arkansas, it could be in Alabama," Leah told us, "anywhere where chickens are grown in the United States." More than 90 percent of all chickens raised for food in the U.S. are grown by farmers working under contract with large poultry producers.

I could go on describing the images but you really need to see them for yourself. That's why I, along with my colleagues Lucy King and Jonah Kessel, made a video, which published this morning. It's the second in a series of films that looks at what happens when we let huge corporations farm our food.

These conditions are the result of a decades-long effort to squeeze as much profit from broiler chicken as possible, a strategy that's proved lucrative for a handful of big companies while causing suffering for chickens and many of the farmers who raise them.

Our aim is not to put you off chicken nuggets or to preach veganism.

But it's important we all understand that cheap chicken, in fact, has a high cost.

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